On this page
- A Landscape That Doesn’t Look Real
- Reading the Map: The Zones Around the Hut Base
- Easy Walks for Short Legs and Short Days
- Day Hikes With Real Payoff
- The Laugavegur Trek, Stage by Stage
- Huts, Tents and Booking Windows
- Rivers, Weather and Safety
- Getting There and Getting Around
- Eating in a Place With No Restaurants
- Beyond the Standard Route
- Insider Tips From People Who’ve Done It
Landmannalaugar sits in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve in the Icelandic Highlands, in the south of Iceland. It is a pocket of rhyolite mountains in shades of pink, mustard, green and blue, with steaming vents, black lava fields and a natural hot spring where hikers soak after a day on the trail. It is the starting point of the Laugavegur trek, a roughly 54 km, four-day walk to Þórsmörk and one of the best-known multi-day hikes in Europe. It is also an excellent base for day hikes of every difficulty. This guide covers the routes, the logistics, the food situation and the mistakes to avoid.
A Landscape That Doesn’t Look Real
Most visitors to Iceland arrive expecting waterfalls and black sand. Landmannalaugar is something else. The mountains here are made of rhyolite, a silica-rich volcanic rock, and mineral oxidation and geothermal activity have painted the slopes in broad bands of color. On a bright day, with the light low and the clouds moving, the hillsides look like they’ve been dyed. On a gray day, which is more likely, the colors turn richer and moodier, and the whole place feels quieter.
The setting is raw. The ground is volcanic, the vegetation sparse apart from bright green moss clinging to stream edges, and the nearby Hekla volcano shapes the horizon to the southwest. Laugahraun, the jagged obsidian lava field beside the hut area, dates to a late 15th-century eruption and still looks freshly poured. The name itself means “the people’s pools,” a nod to the warm springs where travelers have bathed for centuries.
The place has a distinct social character too. In the short summer window, the hut area fills with hikers in muddy boots, wet socks hanging from tent guy lines, and the smell of dehydrated stew. It is communal and slightly chaotic, and more fun than you’d expect. People trade route advice, compare weather forecasts and gather at the hot spring around sunset. Conditions are basic. You are in the middle of Iceland’s interior, 600 meters above sea level, and everything has been carried in.
Reading the Map: The Zones Around the Hut Base
Landmannalaugar isn’t a town, but it has a clear geography. Understanding the zones helps you plan which walks to combine.
Pro Tip
Book your Laugavegur hut spots months ahead and pack a waterproof pack liner, since unbridged glacial river crossings and sudden rain can soak gear even in July.
The Hut and Campground Area
This is the hub. You’ll find the main mountain hut run by Ferðafélag Íslands (the Icelandic Touring Association), a large campground, toilets, basic shower facilities, a small seasonal service point and a ranger presence in summer. The hot spring is a short walk away along a boardwalk. It is where the cold stream meets the hot, so you can move up or down the stream to find your preferred temperature.
Laugahraun Lava Field
The black, craggy lava field sits directly behind the camp. Trails wind through it, and the contrast between the dark rock and the colored hills beyond is the visual signature of the area.
Grænagil (Green Canyon)
A short walk along the lava edge leads to this narrow, moss-lined gorge. The green moss glows against the red and yellow rock, and in rainy weather the canyon looks almost tropical.
Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur
These are the two key peaks. Brennisteinsalda, “Sulfur Wave,” is a steaming, multicolored mountain at around 855 meters with fumaroles at its base. Bláhnúkur, “Blue Peak,” at 945 meters, is a darker, cone-shaped mountain with the best panoramic views in the area. They are side by side and often combined in one loop.
The Southern Edge and Ljótipollur
Driving a short way from the hut area toward the south brings you to Ljótipollur, a deep red-and-black crater lake, and a scatter of lava fields and highland lakes. Few people stop long here, which is part of the appeal.
Easy Walks for Short Legs and Short Days
You don’t need to be a trekker to enjoy Landmannalaugar. Several walks are flat or gently rolling, well-marked and short enough to fit around a bus schedule.
Laugahraun Lava Field Loop
This is the classic first walk. The path winds through the lava, with signs explaining the geology, and allows you to see obsidian shards glinting in the dark rock. Allow one to two hours at an unhurried pace. Footing is uneven in places, so wear proper shoes rather than trainers with thin soles. It makes a good warm-up walk, and the best way to get your bearings.
Grænagil Canyon
Walk from the camp along the edge of the lava field to the canyon mouth. It is short, scenic and ideal for photographers. The canyon can have stream crossings in wet weather, so waterproof footwear helps.
Ljótipollur Crater Lake
“Ugly Puddle” is an unfair name for a vivid red crater lake. You can reach it by a short walk from the nearby road, and the rim path gives views over the surrounding highlands. If you’re driving yourself, it’s a pleasant stop that adds variety to a Landmannalaugar day.
Soaking in the Hot Spring
Not a hike, but an essential part of the experience. Bring a quick-dry towel and sandals for the muddy boardwalk. Water temperature varies depending on where along the stream you sit, and the area can get crowded in late afternoon. Aim for early morning or after dinner.
Day Hikes With Real Payoff
If you have a full day or two and some fitness, these are the walks that make Landmannalaugar famous.
Bláhnúkur (Blue Peak)
This is the signature day hike. From the hut area, a trail climbs steeply up the flank of the dark cone, gaining around 400 meters in about three kilometers. It is steep and the surface of loose volcanic grit is slippery, especially on the descent. Allow around two hours for the round trip, plus time at the top. The summit rewards you with a 360-degree view across the multicolored mountains and the lava field below. On a clear day it’s one of the best short viewpoints in Iceland.
A good tip: if the weather is clear in the morning, go up early. The Highlands change fast, and clouds often settle on the summits by afternoon.
The Bláhnúkur-Brennisteinsalda Loop
The most popular full day hike combines both peaks. You climb Bláhnúkur, descend along the ridge, cross the saddle toward Brennisteinsalda, wander past the steaming vents and return via Laugahraun. The loop is roughly 8 to 10 km, depending on the variation you take, and takes around four to five hours with stops. It’s moderate in difficulty, with one steep ascent and some tricky descent sections. This route also gives you a taste of the first section of the Laugavegur, because the trail starts out the same way.
Brennisteinsalda on Its Own
If you want colors without the climb, a shorter walk from the camp toward Brennisteinsalda takes you onto the hills where steam hisses from the ground and the slopes turn from rust to yellow to white. Stay on marked paths. The ground near vents can be hot and unstable.
Suðurnámur Circuit
This is a longer, quieter loop for people who want solitude. It takes in the Suðurnámur ridge and offers wide views of the highlands with far fewer walkers than Bláhnúkur. It’s a full day, best with a good map or GPS track, and a good choice if the weather is stable.
Hrafntinnusker Out-and-Back
If you have a long day and strong legs but don’t want to commit to the full trek, you can walk part of the first Laugavegur stage and return. The terrain climbs through lava fields, past steaming ground and snow patches, toward the obsidian-strewn plateau of Hrafntinnusker at about 1,100 meters. Keep in mind this section is exposed and often foggy, so only go further if the weather and your timing are good.
The Laugavegur Trek, Stage by Stage
The Laugavegur runs 54 to 55 km from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk and takes most hikers four days, with a hut or campsite at each stop. Its appeal is how quickly the scenery changes. You pass through multicolored rhyolite hills, steaming valleys, snowfields, black deserts, glacial rivers and finally birch woodland.
Day 1: Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker (about 12 km)
The trail leaves the hut area, crosses the Laugahraun lava field, and climbs steadily past Brennisteinsalda. The terrain opens into a high plateau with steam vents, snow patches and views of colorful hills. This stage is a climb of around 500 meters, and the final section can be misty and cold even in summer. The Hrafntinnusker hut sits in a barren, windswept spot at the top, and it’s small, so reserve early. Some people detour to the Stórihver geothermal area.
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn (about 12 km)
This stage begins with a stretch across snow and rock, then drops through a steep descent toward the valley. Suddenly the view opens to Álftavatn, “Swan Lake,” a long, blue lake surrounded by green hills. The descent is hard on the knees, and some wet-weather sections can be slippery. Expect at least one stream crossing, and be prepared to remove your boots. Álftavatn has a hut and campground, and also a nearby alternative at Hvanngil.
Day 3: Álftavatn to Emstrur (about 15 km)
This is the longest and most varied stage, with several river crossings, including the wide Bláfjallakvísl. You’ll want sandals or neoprene shoes for these. The landscape turns to black sand deserts, volcanic plains and views of the Mýrdalsjökull glacier. By the time you reach Emstrur (also called Botnar), you’ve crossed an almost lunar environment. A short detour near the hut leads to the dramatic Markarfljótsgljúfur canyon, which is well worth the extra kilometer or two if you have energy.
Day 4: Emstrur to Þórsmörk (about 15 km)
The final stage includes a bridged crossing of a gorge, then a ford at the Þröngá river, and finally a walk into the birch forests of Þórsmörk, the “Valley of Thor.” After days of barren terrain, greenery feels like a gift. You can finish at Húsadalur, Langidalur or Básar, depending on where you’re staying and where your bus leaves. A cold drink and a hot shower are the traditional rewards.
Huts, Tents and Booking Windows
The Laugavegur is hugely popular, and the logistics are the most important part of planning. The trail is generally walkable from late June or early July to early or mid-September. Snow often lingers on the high sections into early summer, and conditions can change quickly in autumn.
- Huts: Mountain huts operated by Ferðafélag Íslands and Útivist have bunk-style accommodation, shared kitchens and basic facilities. They are not hotels. You bring your own sleeping bag, food and cooking gear where required. Prices run around $100 or more per person per night at the time of writing, so check current rates. Beds in July and August can sell out months in advance, so book as early as possible.
- Camping: Each hut area has a campground, with a lower nightly fee, roughly $20 per person. You need a sturdy, wind-rated tent and are required to camp only in designated sites. Camping spaces also need to be booked in peak season in many cases.
- Guided treks: If you don’t want to organize everything yourself, guided options handle the huts, food and transport. They cost more, but they remove a large part of the stress.
- Shoulder season: Early July has more snow but fewer crowds. Early September has quieter trails but shorter days and more unpredictable weather.
Rivers, Weather and Safety
Landmannalaugar is easy to romanticize, but it is a serious environment. Weather in the Highlands can go from sunshine to freezing rain within an hour, and snow is possible even in July.
- Layers: Pack a waterproof shell, waterproof trousers, a warm mid-layer, a hat and gloves, even in summer. Cotton is a mistake here.
- River crossings: Several streams must be waded. Water levels rise after rain or on warm afternoons, when glacial melt increases. Unbuckle your pack’s hip belt, cross facing upstream, and use trekking poles for balance. Neoprene socks or water shoes keep your feet from going numb and protect you from sharp rocks.
- Navigation: The trail is marked with wooden posts, but fog on the high stretches can make them hard to see. Carry a map and a GPS track or app, and don’t leave the marked route.
- Information: Check the weather forecast at vedur.is and the road conditions at road.is, and register your travel plan at safetravel.is. Hut wardens give daily briefings and will tell you if a river is too dangerous to cross.
- Emergency: The number in Iceland is 112. Mobile coverage is patchy in the interior.
- Thermal areas: Stay on paths near steam vents. The crust can be thin and the ground scalding.
Getting There and Getting Around
Landmannalaugar is about 190 km from Reykjavik, but the last stretch is unpaved highland road. There is no public road you can drive in a standard rental car.
By Bus
Scheduled highland buses from Reykjavik, run by companies such as Reykjavik Excursions and Trex, operate in summer. The trip takes around four hours each way. For the Laugavegur, the usual approach is to take the bus in to Landmannalaugar, walk to Þórsmörk, and take another bus back from Þórsmörk to Reykjavik. Book both legs in advance for peak season. Timetables depend on road openings, which usually start in mid- to late June.
By Car
Access is on F-roads, which are rough gravel tracks that require a 4×4. F225 (Landmannaleið) and F208 (Fjallabak Nyrðri) are the main approaches, and F208 from the south involves river crossings. Rental companies often forbid driving through unbridged rivers, and insurance may not cover water damage. Check road.is before you set out. If you’re only doing the Laugavegur, leaving a car behind is usually a hassle, so the bus is easier.
On the Ground
Once you’re at Landmannalaugar, everything is on foot. Distances between sights are short, and the terrain is the main obstacle. Do not count on being able to shuttle between huts, because trail stages are only accessible on foot.
Eating in a Place With No Restaurants
- Before you go: Stock up in Reykjavik or in a town on the way, such as Selfoss or Hella. Supermarkets like Bónus and Krónan are good for budget-friendly supplies. Outdoor shops in the capital sell gas canisters, dehydrated meals and gear.
- At the hut areas: Huts have communal kitchens, but check what is provided and bring your own food and, if camping, your own stove. A small seasonal service point at Landmannalaugar may sell snacks, drinks and basic items, but availability varies, so don’t count on it.
- What to pack: Instant oats, nuts, cheese, flatbread, chocolate, pasta, instant noodles and dehydrated dinners work well. Calorie-dense food is more useful than gourmet food. A hot drink at the end of a wet day is worth its weight.
- Water: Streams along the route are generally drinkable, but avoid water near geothermal sources, which can be sulfurous or too hot. Ask the hut wardens if you’re unsure.
- The reward meal: Þórsmörk has options at the end of the trail, including restaurant-style meals at the Húsadalur area. After four days of dehydrated food, a hot dinner there feels like a feast.
- Pack out your trash: There’s no waste collection in the interior. Carry everything out.
Beyond the Standard Route
If the Laugavegur doesn’t feel like enough, or you want to avoid the busiest trail, there are good alternatives across southern Iceland.
Fimmvörðuháls
This is the natural extension. From Básar in Þórsmörk, a demanding day hike of roughly 25 km crosses the pass between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers to Skógar on the south coast. The route passes the fresh lava fields created in the 2010 eruption and ends with a long descent alongside a chain of waterfalls above Skógafoss. Combining it with the Laugavegur makes a five- or six-day trek from highlands to coast. Weather and conditions on the pass need serious respect.
Strútsstígur
This is a quieter multi-day alternative that runs roughly three days through the Fjallabak area, ending at Álftavatn. You’ll see far fewer people, with a similar volcanic landscape, and it gives a way of connecting to the Laugavegur if you want to combine routes. It is less developed and requires more self-reliance.
Nearby Stops
If you’re driving, the road toward Landmannalaugar passes a number of stops. Þjófafoss, a waterfall on the Þjórsá river, is a quick photo stop on the approach. The Hrauneyjar highland center offers fuel and a meal on the interior routes. Farther afield, Veiðivötn lakes and the Landmannahellir area offer more remote highland scenery. On the way back toward the south coast, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss make the transition from wilderness to postcard Iceland.
Insider Tips From People Who’ve Done It
- Book before you buy flights. Hut spaces on the Laugavegur are the bottleneck. Many experienced hikers secure the huts first and plan the rest of their trip around them.
- Walk north to south. Most people go from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, which gives you more descent than ascent and finishes in the greenery. Going the other way is possible but tougher.
- Be flexible on timing. If the forecast is dire for the high stage between Landmannalaugar and Hrafntinnusker, wait a day. Hut wardens often have the latest local information.
- Waterproof everything. Use a pack liner or dry bags. Wet clothes and a wet sleeping bag can turn a hard day into a dangerous one.
- Use trekking poles. They help on the steep descent from Hrafntinnusker, the loose volcanic gravel on Bláhnúkur and the river fords.
- Pack ear plugs. Mountain huts are shared sleeping spaces. Someone will snore, and someone will start packing at 5 a.m.
- Take a sit-pad or lightweight camp shoes. After a day in boots, a pair of dry shoes feels like luxury, and you’ll need them for stream crossings anyway.
- Respect the ground. Stay on trails. The moss and thin volcanic soil take decades to recover from damage, and fragile landscapes like Landmannalaugar depend on every visitor doing their part.
- Allow a buffer day. If you need to catch a flight from Keflavík, don’t schedule your final trek day and your departure on the same day. Weather delays and bus timings can disrupt even a well-planned itinerary.
- Go early or late in the day. The area is busiest mid-morning to late afternoon, when tour buses arrive. Starting before the crowds or lingering after they leave transforms the experience.
Explore more
Landmannalaugar’s Geothermal Hot Springs: Where to Soak, What to Expect, and How to Visit Responsibly
Surviving Landmannalaugar: Camping, Huts, and How to Prepare for Iceland’s Wildest Highland Conditions
📷 Featured image by Jon Flobrant on Unsplash.