Beyond the Park: Discovering Borjomi’s Likani District (History, Hikes & Hidden Gems)

What Makes Likani District Worth Separating from the Rest of Borjomi

Most visitors to Borjomi, Georgia’s famous spa town tucked into the Caucasus foothills, do the same loop: they walk through Borjomi Central Park, fill a cup from the open-air mineral spring, ride the cable car, and call it a day. That itinerary is perfectly enjoyable, but it misses something genuinely compelling sitting just a couple of kilometers to the west. Likani is technically a district within the broader Borjomi municipality, a quieter, greener, and historically richer corner that rewards anyone willing to peel away from the tourist trail. Here you’ll find a 19th-century royal palace behind high walls, forest trails that see almost no foot traffic, mineral springs with a completely different character than the ones in the central park, and a handful of places to eat where the clientele is almost entirely Georgian. This guide is dedicated entirely to that district – its layers of history, its walkable terrain, and the practical knowledge you need to actually get there and enjoy it.

A Royal Past: The History of Likani Palace and the Romanov Connection

The defining landmark of Likani district is the palace, and understanding its history transforms it from a walled-off building into something genuinely fascinating. The Likani Palace was constructed in the late 19th century as a summer residence for the Russian imperial family during the period when the Caucasus was under Romanov rule. Grand Duke Mikhail Nikolaevich, who served as Viceroy of the Caucasus, commissioned the original structure, and the estate was later beloved by members of the extended imperial family who came to take the mountain air and bathe in the mineral-rich waters of the Mtkvari River valley.

The architecture itself reflects a hybrid sensibility – part European neoclassical, part Caucasian vernacular – that was fashionable among Russian aristocracy building in the region during that era. The grounds were landscaped with an English-style park, filled with specimen trees imported from across the empire. Some of those trees, now enormous, still stand and give the estate an otherworldly, slightly melancholy quality when you catch glimpses through the fence.

After the Soviet takeover of Georgia in 1921, the palace didn’t fall into ruin – it was repurposed. Soviet leadership recognized the therapeutic value of the region and converted the estate into a state dacha complex. Stalin himself is documented to have stayed here, and during the Soviet decades Likani became one of the highest-security recreational zones in the South Caucasus. Senior party officials and foreign dignitaries were hosted on the grounds, which is part of why the compound was kept in excellent repair while much of the surrounding region stagnated economically.

Today the palace functions as an official presidential residence of Georgia, which means access to the interior is not possible for the general public. However, the exterior walls and gates are visible from the road, and the surrounding grounds – the forested parkland immediately adjacent – are accessible. Guided walking tours occasionally bring groups past the perimeter with commentary about the history, and local guides in Borjomi town proper can arrange these. Even viewing the building from outside, particularly in autumn when the massive old oaks and chestnuts turn color, is quietly striking.

Navigating Likani: How the District Fits Into Borjomi’s Geography

Borjomi sits in a deep river valley formed by the Mtkvari (Kura) River and its tributaries. The town itself runs roughly east-west along the valley floor, with forested slopes rising steeply on both sides. Likani occupies the western end of this valley stretch, beginning where the main town’s commercial activity fades out and the road begins to narrow.

The district has two distinct zones. The valley-floor zone follows the river and includes the palace compound, a cluster of guesthouses and small hotels, and the secondary mineral spring area. This part is flat, walkable, and easy to navigate. The upland zone – the forested slopes above – is where the serious hiking happens. The transition between these two zones is abrupt; within fifteen minutes of walking uphill from the valley road you’re in dense mixed forest with the town completely hidden below.

Orientation is straightforward once you understand the main road. The central artery running through Likani is an extension of the road that passes Borjomi Central Park. If you’re walking from the park’s western gate, Likani begins roughly after the Intourist Hotel, a Soviet-era structure that serves as a useful landmark. The palace walls appear on your right as you continue west. The road eventually curves south along the river and begins climbing toward the village of Timotesubani, which marks the practical boundary of the district for most visitors.

The Mtkvari River runs parallel to the main road throughout, and there are several small bridges crossing it that lead to riverside walking paths on the opposite bank. These paths are underused and genuinely lovely – the sound of the river, the overhanging alders, and the occasional fisherman make for a peaceful alternative to road-walking.

Hiking Trails in and Around Likani: Elevation, Forest, and Solitude

Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park is one of the largest protected forest areas in Europe, and Likani sits at one of its less-visited entry points. The trails accessible from the district range from easy riverside walks to multi-hour climbs into high meadows, and the lack of signage that would frustrate a casual walker is exactly what keeps these routes uncrowded.

The most accessible trail from Likani climbs the southern slope through beech and oak forest before transitioning into fir at higher elevation. The trailhead is found by following the minor road uphill from near the palace’s outer fence – look for a wooden post marker that is easy to miss if you’re not watching for it. The first hour of walking is steep but well-shaded, and the path becomes more gradual once it reaches a long forested ridge. From this ridge on a clear day you can see the full sweep of the Borjomi valley below, the town looking almost toy-like in the gorge. The round trip from valley floor to ridge and back takes roughly four hours at a moderate pace.

A second option follows the river upstream on the northern bank, crossing via a small footbridge near the edge of the palace compound. This path winds through riparian forest and connects after about ninety minutes to the village of Daba, which has a small guesthouse and a spring. This route is flatter and suitable for anyone – the terrain is gentle, the river is audible the entire way, and the birdlife in the riverside forest is exceptional in spring and early summer.

For more serious hikers, the national park’s longer routes – some of which require overnight camping or use of the park’s backcountry shelters – can be accessed via Likani with proper planning. The park administration office in Borjomi town issues permits and can provide trail maps; it’s strongly advisable to go there before attempting anything beyond the ridge trail, since cell coverage disappears quickly once you gain elevation. A local guide is worth considering for any route that goes beyond the first ridge, not for safety reasons but because the trail network branches in ways that will confuse anyone without local knowledge.

Gear considerations are practical rather than extreme. Good walking shoes rather than technical boots work fine for the two accessible trails described above. Bring water, since there are natural springs along several paths but their reliability varies seasonally. The forest canopy provides shade, but the valley floor can get genuinely hot in July and August, so early morning starts make sense in summer.

The Likani Mineral Springs: A Different Flavor from the Famous Park

Borjomi’s global reputation rests on its mineral water, which has been bottled and exported since the 19th century. The springs in the central park – warm, slightly sulfurous, pleasantly carbonated – are what most visitors taste. The springs accessible in and near Likani district have a distinct character, and for anyone interested in the region’s geothermal geology, comparing them is genuinely interesting rather than merely symbolic.

The secondary spring cluster in Likani is cooler in temperature and lower in sulfur content, with a more pronounced iron and bicarbonate flavor that mineral water enthusiasts describe as cleaner and more drinkable in quantity. Local residents have been coming here for generations specifically because the taste profile suits them better than the central springs. There’s no official tap structure here – the spring emerges from a hillside in a fairly unassuming way – but locals have placed small pipes and stones to make filling bottles convenient.

The therapeutic claims around Georgian mineral waters have long histories, dating to before the Russian imperial period when local Georgians were already using the springs for bathing and drinking. The Likani springs, being less accessible and harder to commercialize, were never promoted in the same way, which is partly why they remain a local secret.

If you want to try the water from both sources in the same visit, the walk from the central park springs to the Likani springs takes about thirty to forty minutes on foot along the valley road. Bring an empty bottle and rinse it between the two sources so you can taste them cleanly. The difference is subtle but real, and it’s the kind of sensory detail that makes a place stick in memory rather than blur into a general impression of “Georgia.”

Hidden Gems: Monasteries, Soviet Ruins, and Forgotten Corners

One of Likani’s underappreciated qualities is the density of historically significant but poorly signposted sites within a relatively small area. You won’t find these on most tourist maps, and finding them requires either local knowledge or a willingness to explore on foot.

The most significant religious site near Likani is the Timotesubani Monastery, a 12th-century church dedicated to the Virgin Mary that sits in the village of the same name, about four kilometers south of the palace along the river road. The church contains original medieval frescoes that are considered among the finest examples of Georgian medieval painting still in situ – saints and biblical scenes rendered in the warm ochre-and-crimson palette characteristic of the period. The village is quiet to the point of seeming uninhabited, and the monastery is usually unlocked but unstaffed; visitors let themselves in, observe quietly, and leave. There is no admission fee and no gift shop. The frescoes alone justify the walk or drive from Likani.

Soviet-era ruins appear in several spots in the district, the most evocative being the remnants of a sanatorium complex that operated from the 1930s through the late Soviet period. Georgia’s sanatorium culture was enormous – the state built sprawling complexes throughout the Caucasus to send workers for therapeutic rest – and Likani hosted several facilities that drew patients from across the USSR. Some of these buildings have been repurposed as hotels or guesthouses. Others stand empty, their concrete facades colonized by moss and climbing plants. Walking past them invokes an odd nostalgia for a system you never experienced – the ambition of it, the peculiar Soviet belief that organized rest could be a pillar of worker productivity.

There’s also a small waterfall on a tributary stream that enters the Mtkvari from the northern slope, accessible via a rough path that branches off the main riverside walk. Locals know it as a swimming spot in summer. The pool at the base is shallow but cold and clear. In spring, when snowmelt is running high, the falls are genuinely dramatic. In late summer they reduce to a trickle but the pool remains.

Eating and Drinking Near Likani: Where Locals Actually Go

The food scene in Likani district is sparse by design – this is a residential and natural area rather than a commercial one – but what exists is worth knowing about. The nearest concentration of restaurants is in Borjomi’s central district, a short walk or drive east, but a few options in and immediately adjacent to Likani serve food that reflects genuine Georgian home cooking rather than the adjusted-for-tourists versions you find near the park entrance.

Several guesthouses in the district serve meals to non-guests if you call ahead, which is the local equivalent of a restaurant reservation. These family-run operations typically offer a fixed spread at lunchtime: a rotating combination of lobiani (bean-stuffed bread), various badrijani (eggplant) preparations, mchadi (cornbread), fresh cheese, seasonal salads, and usually a meat dish – often chicken or pork prepared with walnut sauce. The food is straightforward and honest, and the setting – often a garden table under a vine-covered pergola – is hard to replicate.

Georgian wine is the natural accompaniment, and in this part of Kartli region you’re more likely to encounter light, crisp whites from Chinuri or Rkatsiteli grapes rather than the amber skin-contact wines more associated with Kakheti. A carafe of house wine at a guesthouse meal is typically included in or appended to a modest per-person price. Chacha – the fiery grape spirit that functions as Georgia’s answer to grappa – will almost certainly be offered at some point. Accepting one small glass is socially appropriate and often delicious; trying to keep pace with your host is ill-advised.

For a coffee or something light, the small shops along the main valley road sell basic provisions, and there’s a modest café near the Intourist Hotel that has outdoor seating and makes acceptable Turkish-style coffee. It’s not a destination in itself, but it’s a reasonable place to rest before or after a walk.

Getting to Likani and Moving Around Without a Car

The practical good news about Likani is that it’s entirely reachable without a vehicle, which matters in a town where car rental options are limited and taxis are erratically available. From Borjomi’s central area – the main square near the park entrance – Likani is roughly two kilometers on foot along a flat, paved road that follows the river. The walk takes twenty-five to thirty minutes at a comfortable pace and is pleasant in its own right, passing guesthouses, old Soviet sanatorium buildings, and the river on your left.

Minibuses (marshrutky) run periodically between Borjomi center and the western districts, including Likani, but the schedule is informal and asking locally about the current timing is more reliable than any printed information. The fare is minimal – typically one or two Georgian lari for the short hop. Taxis from the center to Likani cost around five to ten lari and take five minutes; agreeing on the fare before getting in is standard practice.

Once in Likani, the valley floor is navigable entirely on foot. The main road, the riverside paths, and the lower sections of hiking trails all connect without needing transport. The only time a vehicle becomes useful is if you’re heading to Timotesubani village, which adds four kilometers each way to an already full day. In that case, either hire a taxi for a half-day with a specific itinerary or ask your guesthouse whether they can arrange transport – many can.

Getting to Borjomi itself from Tbilisi takes about two and a half to three hours by marshrutka from Didube bus terminal, or roughly the same by the slow but scenic train that runs through the Borjomi valley. From Kutaisi, the second city, marshrutky run less frequently but the journey is under two hours. Gori, the closest significant town, connects to Borjomi in about an hour by shared taxi.

Best Times to Visit and What Each Season Offers

Likani’s character shifts noticeably with the seasons, and the best time to visit depends entirely on what you’re looking for rather than any universal recommendation.

Spring (April to June) is the most dramatic season visually. The forest canopy fills in quickly, wildflowers appear on the trail margins, and the Mtkvari runs fast and loud with snowmelt. The waterfall on the northern tributary is at its best. Temperatures are mild – daytime highs in the low twenties Celsius – and the crowds that descend in July and August haven’t arrived yet. Birdwatching in spring is exceptional; the Borjomi valley lies on a migration corridor and the variety of species passing through the riparian forest in April and May is remarkable.

Summer (July and August) brings the highest visitor numbers to Borjomi as a whole, largely Georgian families and visitors from neighboring countries escaping city heat. The central park gets crowded; Likani stays relatively calm. The hiking trails provide shade and the forest temperature is noticeably cooler than the valley floor. The swimming hole beneath the waterfall becomes a local gathering spot.

Autumn (September and October) is arguably the finest season in the district. The palace grounds and surrounding forest turn extraordinary colors – deep golds, russets, and occasional flashes of crimson from the sumac that grows along the roadsides. The air is clear, temperatures are comfortable for hiking, and the light has that low-angle quality that makes landscape photography effortless. By mid-October the visitors have largely gone and the valley has a contemplative quiet.

Winter (November to March) sees snowfall in the higher elevations and occasional frost in the valley. The town quiets dramatically. Most guesthouses remain open but the food options thin out. The palace compound takes on a stark, slightly eerie quality under snow, the bare trees revealing its outlines clearly. Serious hikers with winter experience can access the ridge trails in good weather, and the solitude is total. It’s a niche time to visit but not without appeal.

Practical Tips for Making the Most of Your Likani Exploration

A few concrete pieces of knowledge will save you time and frustration once you’re there.

• Currency: Georgia uses the Georgian lari (GEL). ATMs in Borjomi center dispense lari reliably; there are no ATMs in Likani district itself, so arrive with cash if you plan to spend a full day in the western end of the valley.
• Language: Georgian is the primary language, with Russian widely understood among older residents. English is spoken in some guesthouses but cannot be assumed. A handful of Georgian phrases – madloba (thank you), gamarjoba (hello), ra ghirs (how much does it cost) – go a long way and are consistently met with warmth.
• Photography near the palace: The presidential residence designation means photographing the palace directly through or over its fence may attract attention from guards stationed at the compound. Photographing the surrounding forest, the riverside, and the road itself is entirely fine.
• Guesthouse booking: Accommodation in Likani district is predominantly small family guesthouses rather than hotels. Booking platforms like Booking.com list some options, but a significant number operate through word-of-mouth or local recommendation. Arriving without a reservation in summer is risky; in shoulder season it’s usually manageable.
• Trail navigation: Download the trail data from the national park website before you arrive or use an offline mapping app loaded with the relevant tiles. Do not rely on cell data for navigation once you’re above the valley floor.
• Timotesubani visit: If you plan to walk to the monastery and back, allow a full half-day minimum. The road is quiet but there’s no footpath separate from the vehicle lane, so stay alert.
• Drinking water: Tap water in Georgia is generally safe and often mineral-rich. In Likani, some properties draw from local springs rather than the municipal supply, which is perfectly fine. Locals drink it without hesitation, and there’s no need to rely on bottled water throughout your visit.

Likani rewards the kind of traveler who is comfortable with places that don’t announce themselves. There are no information panels explaining the palace’s history, no arrows pointing to the waterfall, no laminated menus in English at the guesthouse lunch table. What there is instead is a valley that has been significant – to Romanovs, to Soviet apparatchiks, to Georgian families seeking clean air – for reasons that predate tourism and will outlast it. Coming here with some knowledge of that history and a willingness to wander is all the preparation you actually need.

Explore more
How to Drink Borjomi Mineral Water Like a Local (and Where to Find the Best Springs)
Borjomi National Park: Complete Hiking and Nature Guide
The Complete Guide to Borjomi’s Thermal Springs and Spa Culture

📷 Featured image by Vasily Ledovsky on Unsplash.