Tusheti’s Ancient Tower Villages: A Trekker’s Route Guide

Tusheti is a high plateau in the northeast of Georgia, in the Greater Caucasus, where stone tower villages sit on steep slopes above the branches of the Alazani River. This guide explains how to reach the region, how to read the architecture, and how to link the best villages on foot. It covers two core routes, a few longer options, local food, guesthouses, seasonal timing, and the practical details that decide whether a trip runs smoothly.

Why Tusheti Feels Like Another Georgia

Georgia has plenty of mountain scenery, but Tusheti is different in kind. The road in is one of the country’s most notorious, and it closes for roughly half the year. Because of that, the region keeps a rhythm that has more to do with shepherds and seasons than with tourism. Families come up from the Kakheti lowlands in early summer, open their stone houses, move their flocks onto the high pastures, and leave again in autumn. In winter the villages are almost empty.

The landscape is open and enormous, nothing like the claustrophobic gorges you find elsewhere in the Caucasus. Meadows roll up to rocky ridges, and slate-roofed houses cling to hillsides. Churches and shrines sit in places that make sense only once you have walked there. The valleys are fed by four branches of the Alazani River, and trails follow them between villages that are a few hours apart on foot and much farther by road.

Tushetians have a strong identity within Georgia. They are known as shepherds and cheesemakers, and they are proud of their own dialect, customs, and festivals. You will notice it in how guesthouse hosts talk about their villages, and in how nearly every conversation drifts to sheep, weather, or whose family built which tower.

Why the Towers Exist: Reading the Architecture

The towers are the reason many people make the trip, and they are easier to appreciate once you understand what they were for. Tusheti sits near the border with Dagestan and Chechnya in Russia, and for centuries its remote communities faced raids and disputes over pastureland. Families built stone towers that could shelter people and valuables when trouble came. Many were part of fortified clusters, with houses and towers packed together so that residents could cover each other’s approaches.

Look closely at a tower and you will see how it works. The walls are thick and built from local stone, usually without much decoration. The openings are narrow, and the upper floors often step in or carry projecting galleries for defence. Interiors were simple, with livestock and storage below and living space above. The older towers have a severe, almost military look, while the residential stone houses nearby are softer, with slate roofs and, in some villages, wooden balconies.

The villages differ in how well they have survived. Some, like Dartlo, are largely intact and still lived in during summer. Others, like Diklo and parts of the upper valleys, are ruined or partly restored, and the drama comes from seeing walls and towers standing against empty ridgelines. Restoration has been uneven, so you will see a mix of freshly rebuilt guesthouses, carefully conserved towers, and plain tumbledown stone. Part of the pleasure is working out which is which.

Pay attention to the small shrines and sanctuaries on ridges and near villages. Tushetian religious life blends Orthodox Christianity with older highland traditions, and some sacred places have their own rules. At some of them, access for women or the handling of certain objects is restricted. Observe any signs and ask your host before wandering into a shrine area.

Reaching the Plateau: The Abano Pass Road

Everything starts with the road over the Abano Pass, which tops out at roughly 2,800 metres. It is unpaved, narrow, and steep, with long drops and few barriers. The drive to Omalo takes several hours depending on road conditions. Ordinary rental cars are not a good idea. Even confident drivers regularly get stuck, and breakdowns are expensive to fix this far from anywhere.

The standard approach is to base yourself in Telavi, the main town of Kakheti, and leave early in the morning. Shared 4×4 vans run in the main season, usually departing when full, and a few services run on a fixed schedule. Fares are modest, in the range of a few tens of dollars per person, but they vary and can change from one season to the next, so ask at your guesthouse in Telavi. A private 4×4 with a driver costs more but gives you control over timing and photo stops, and it is the better choice for groups of three or four.

The road itself is part of the experience. You climb through forest, then through alpine meadows, to a pass where the weather can change in minutes. Then you drop into the Tusheti side, where the valleys open up. Travellers who dislike heights should be ready. Sit on the inner side of the vehicle if you can, and take motion sickness tablets if you are prone to it.

The road is generally open from around June to mid-October, but this is not a fixed schedule. Late snow can delay the start of the season, and early storms can end it. Check conditions with your guesthouse or driver before you commit, and keep a buffer of a day or two on either side of your trek in case of delays.

Omalo and Keselo: Your Base Camp

Omalo is the main settlement in Tusheti and the natural starting point for any trek. It is split into Upper Omalo and Lower Omalo, a short walk apart. Lower Omalo has the practical side of things, including most guesthouses, a few small shops, the information office for the protected areas, and the vans back to Telavi. Upper Omalo is quieter and more atmospheric, with older stone buildings and a relaxed, village feel.

The main historic site is the Keselo fortress complex, a group of towers and stone buildings on a ridge above Upper Omalo. It is a short walk from the village, and it is the best introduction to what Tushetian fortifications looked like. Some of the buildings have been restored and house small exhibits, while others stand as ruins. Come in the late afternoon if you can, because the light on the stone is excellent and the views over the valley give you a first sense of the scale of the area.

Plan to spend a night or two in Omalo before setting out. It helps with acclimatisation, since you will already be at a decent altitude, and it gives you time to sort out gear, change money, and talk through routes with your hosts. They know the current state of the trails, which bridges are passable, and where the horses are grazing. That local knowledge is worth more than any printed map.

The protected areas office in Omalo can provide maps, trail information, and advice on conditions. Opening hours and services can be irregular, so treat it as a bonus rather than something to build your plans around.

Dartlo: The Village Everyone Photographs

If you only see one tower village in Tusheti, make it Dartlo. It is the best preserved of the region’s villages, with clusters of stone towers and houses climbing a hillside in a way that looks almost unreal. The slate roofs, wooden balconies, and narrow lanes give it a texture that is hard to find elsewhere in Georgia.

Most visitors reach Dartlo by 4×4 from Omalo, and the drive takes under an hour. If you have time, walking is more rewarding. The trail follows the valley and gives you a slow reveal of the village as you approach. Allow most of a day for the walk, with a break for lunch, and arrange your return by car if you do not want to retrace your steps.

In the village, wander the lanes and take in the towers from different angles. There is a small church, and the cemetery on the edge of the village has views back across the valley. Nearby you will find mineral springs with orange-tinted deposits, a reminder of how much natural water chemistry shapes the area. Tasting the spring water is something of a tradition, though it is strongly mineral and not to everyone’s taste.

Dartlo is also where visitor numbers are highest, especially in July and August. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for photos and for a quieter walk. If you stay overnight in the village rather than visiting as a day trip, you will have the lanes mostly to yourself once the day visitors leave.

Route One: The Omalo, Shenako and Diklo Loop

This is the classic short trek for visitors with two or three days and moderate fitness. It links Omalo with Shenako and Diklo, and it gives you a taste of both the green villages and the more remote ruined towers.

The route leaves Omalo across the hillside and follows trails and old tracks to Shenako, a village on a ridge with fine views. From there the path continues towards Diklo, which is one of the most dramatic sites in Tusheti. Diklo’s old fortress sits above a deep valley, and its ruined towers and walls look out toward the mountains that form the border with Dagestan. It feels like a place that was built to be watched from, and standing in it you understand why.

Times depend on your pace, the weather, and how often you stop. As a rough guide, plan for several hours of walking each way, and allow a full day for the outing if you intend to return to Omalo the same evening. Many trekkers split it over two days, sleeping in a guesthouse in or near Shenako or Diklo, which makes it easier to enjoy the villages rather than racing through them.

The terrain is mostly well-marked trail and old shepherd tracks. There are some steady climbs and descents, and a few exposed sections where the path narrows. It is not technical, but you should be comfortable on uneven ground and carry enough water, because sources are not always reliable on the ridges.

• Best for: first-time trekkers in Tusheti, or anyone short on time.
• Style: day trip or overnight, with guesthouse stays in the villages.
• Highlight: the ruined fortress setting at Diklo and the views toward the border ranges.

Route Two: Dartlo, Parsma and the Upper Pirikita Villages

For a longer trek, head into the upper valleys. This route links Dartlo with higher villages such as Parsma, Girevi, and other settlements further up, and it is where the sense of remoteness really builds. Plan on at least three or four days if you want to walk it properly, and expect to spend nights in guesthouses or at camps in the villages.

Parsma is known for its tower ruins and its position on a high slope, and it has a stronger fortress character than Dartlo. The trails between villages climb through meadows and along ridges, crossing streams that can run high after rain. Girevi sits further up the valley and feels more isolated, with fewer visitors and a quieter, more traditional atmosphere.

The walking is more demanding than the Omalo loop. There is more elevation gain, the trails can be less clear, and the weather is more exposed. Mist and sudden storms can make route-finding harder, so a GPS app with downloaded offline maps is useful. Local guides and horsemen are available in the villages, and for a first trek in the upper valleys, hiring one is a sensible investment. They know the shortcuts, the safe fords, and the best places to stop.

Villages along this route often have only one or two guesthouses, and they can fill up in peak season. Confirm your bookings in advance when you can, and keep some flexibility in your schedule in case weather forces a change of plans.

Beyond the Villages: Longer Crossings and Day Options

Experienced trekkers can link Tusheti with neighbouring regions through high passes. The most talked-about option is the crossing toward Khevsureti over the Atsunta Pass, which is a serious multi-day undertaking. It involves high altitude, remote terrain, changeable weather, and sections with no villages for long stretches. This is not a casual add-on. You need a good level of fitness, proper navigation, and ideally a guide who knows the route. Border-zone rules may also apply on some trails in this region, so check current requirements with the protected areas office or your guesthouse before setting out.

If long treks are not your plan, there are easier ways to see the villages. Shorter walks from Omalo, such as the stroll up to Keselo, work for any fitness level. Hiring a 4×4 for a day to visit Dartlo and a few nearby villages gives you the architecture without the effort. Horse riding is also available from several villages, with local horsemen offering half-day and multi-day trips. It is a good option for travellers who want to cover distance but would rather not carry a heavy pack.

What You Will Eat

Food in Tusheti is simple, hearty, and built around sheep and dairy. Most meals are at guesthouses, where you eat what the family prepares. Dinner is usually included in the price, and portions are generous.

The best-known local product is Tushetian Guda cheese, a sharp, salty sheep’s cheese traditionally aged in sheep skin. It has a strong flavour and a crumbly texture, and it is something you either love or take a polite pass on. Try it at least once, ideally with bread and a glass of something strong.

Kotori is the other must-try. It is a flatbread stuffed with potato and cheese, folded and cooked until crisp on the outside and soft inside. It is the standard trekker’s lunch because it is filling and easy to carry. Tushetian khinkali, the Georgian dumplings, are also served in the region, often filled with lamb and shaped differently from the khinkali you find in lowland restaurants. Expect rustic versions that are more about meat and broth than refinement.

Many hosts also serve home-brewed beer, often a dark, malty highland style, and chacha, the Georgian grape spirit, is rarely far from the table. Vegetarians can usually be accommodated with potatoes, cheese, bread, salads, and bean dishes, but let your guesthouse know in advance because the menu is limited by what is available that day.

Where You Will Sleep

Accommodation in Tusheti is mostly family guesthouses, ranging from basic rooms with shared bathrooms to newer places with private rooms and hot showers. Prices usually include breakfast and dinner, and rates vary by village and season, often in the range of a few tens of dollars per person for half board. Facilities become simpler the further you go from Omalo.

Expect shared rooms in some places, thin walls, and limited hot water. Electricity is sometimes provided by generators or small solar systems, so charge devices when you can. Heating, when needed, is usually a wood stove in the common room.

Camping is possible in many areas and gives you more freedom on longer routes. Check with locals before pitching a tent, because some pastures are used by shepherds, and some areas fall within protected landscape rules. Practise standard leave-no-trace habits, carry out your rubbish, and keep a respectful distance from livestock and their guard dogs.

Timing Your Trek: Seasons and Weather

The season is short, so timing matters. Early summer, around June and early July, brings wildflowers and green meadows, but snow can linger on higher trails and streams run high from melt. July and August are the most reliable months for weather and the busiest for visitors, with long days and the best chance of clear skies. Afternoon thunderstorms are common even then, so start walking early.

September is a favourite among experienced trekkers. Crowds thin, the air is crisp, and the colours begin to turn on the slopes. It is also when many shepherds begin moving their flocks down toward the lowlands, so the villages gradually empty. By late September and October, the weather becomes less predictable, and the road can close with little warning.

Practical Tips Nobody Mentions Until You Need Them

• Cash: there are no reliable ATMs in the region. Bring enough Georgian lari for your whole stay, including guesthouses, meals, transport, and any horse or guide hire. Card payments are rare.
• Phone signal: coverage is patchy and absent in many valleys. Download offline maps and let someone know your plans. Do not count on being able to call for help.
• Documents: carry your passport. There are border police checkpoints in the region, and some areas near the frontier may require permits. Ask at the protected areas office or your guesthouse about current rules for your route.
• Footwear and gear: sturdy hiking boots, waterproof layers, a warm mid-layer, sun protection, and trekking poles are all worth having. River crossings can be wet, so quick-drying clothes help.
• Water: streams are plentiful but livestock use the same valleys. Treat or filter water before drinking.
• Dogs: large sheepdogs guard the flocks and can be aggressive toward strangers. Keep your distance, avoid sudden movements, and walk around flocks rather than through them. If a dog approaches, stay calm and back away slowly.
• Navigation: trails are not always signposted and can split into multiple tracks. Use a GPS app, ask locals for directions, and consider a guide for the higher routes.
• Etiquette: dress modestly when visiting churches and shrines, ask before photographing people, and close gates behind you. Many pastures and fields are working land.
• Buffer days: weather and road conditions can delay your return. Do not schedule onward flights or tight connections for the day after you leave the plateau.

Tusheti rewards people who slow down. The towers are impressive, but the real appeal is in the details: smoke rising from a village kitchen, a shepherd moving his flock along a ridge, a long dinner in a stone house with a family who are happy to share what they have. Walk the routes, eat what you are given, and leave room in your plans for the weather and the road to do what they will.

Explore more
Surviving the Abano Pass: What to Know Before You Go
Tusheti’s Nomadic Shepherd Culture and the Tushetian Way of Life

📷 Featured image by Aleksandr Popov on Unsplash.