Cappadocia’s Underground Cities: Exploring Derinkuyu, Kaymaklı & the Region’s Subterranean World

Beneath the fairy chimneys and balloon-filled skies of central Turkey lies a second Cappadocia, a honeycomb of tunnels, stables, chapels, kitchens and storerooms carved into volcanic rock. Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı are the two big names, each descending through multiple levels where whole communities once sheltered from invaders. This guide covers how and why these cities were built, what it’s like inside them, which lesser-known underground sites are worth your time, where to stay, what to eat, and how to fit it all into a trip through this part of Turkey.

Why Cappadocia’s People Dug Down

The story starts with the landscape. Millions of years ago, the volcanoes Erciyes and Hasan Dağı blanketed this part of Anatolia in thick layers of ash. That ash compacted into tuff, a soft, lightweight rock that can be scratched with a metal tool when freshly cut and then hardens once exposed to air. Cappadocians worked out thousands of years ago that this was an ideal building material. You can carve a room in a weekend, and it stays a steady, cool temperature all year.

Above ground, that gave the region its famous cave houses and rock-cut churches. Below ground, it gave people a way to disappear. Nobody knows exactly who dug the first chambers. Some researchers point to the Phrygians around the 8th to 7th centuries BC, and the Greek writer Xenophon described underground dwellings in Anatolia around 400 BC, though he doesn’t tell us where. What most historians agree on is that the networks grew substantially during the Byzantine period, when Arab raids pushed through Anatolia between roughly the 7th and 10th centuries. Later unrest, including Mongol incursions, kept the tunnels in use.

Most of these cities were not permanent homes. Families kept their houses and fields above ground and retreated downward when danger approached, sometimes for days or weeks. That detail changes how you read the space. The kitchens are modest, the bedrooms are small alcoves, and the real investment went into doors, air shafts and water access.

The Greek Orthodox community of Cappadocia continued to use some of these spaces into the early 20th century, until the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey emptied the villages. The tunnels were largely forgotten until 1963, when a local man in Derinkuyu reportedly knocked through a wall in his house while renovating and found a hidden passage. Derinkuyu opened to visitors in 1969, and today the region has more than 200 known underground complexes, though only a handful are open to the public.

Derinkuyu: Walking the Deepest City

Derinkuyu, whose name means “deep well” in Turkish, sits about 30 kilometres south of Nevşehir in the middle of a small agricultural town. The entrance is so ordinary, wedged between shops and tea gardens, that it surprises many visitors. You walk out of daylight and a few steps later you are in a different world.

The city is believed to reach around 60 metres down across as many as 18 levels, although only about eight are open to visitors, reaching roughly 55 metres or so. Estimates of its historical capacity run as high as 20,000 people with livestock, though that number is debated. Even at half that, it’s a staggering concept.

Inside, a well-marked route takes you down a series of steep, low passages. Overhead lights are dim and warm, which helps with the atmosphere without making it hard to see. Early on you pass the stables, with feeding troughs carved into the walls, close to the entrance so animals wouldn’t have to be moved far. Further down you find:

• Communal kitchens with blackened ceilings and ventilation holes that carried smoke away from the living areas.
• Storage rooms and cellars with large clay jars set into the floor for grain, oil and wine.
• A winery or pressing area where grapes were crushed in a carved basin, with channels leading to storage.
• School or meeting rooms with long benches carved from the rock.
• A cross-shaped chapel deep on the lower levels, with simple vaulted ceilings and a calm, almost hushed feeling.

Near the bottom, you reach a vertical ventilation shaft that doubled as a well. Look up and you can feel the air moving. It’s one of the clearest demonstrations of how the city kept itself livable for long stretches.

Allow about an hour. Some passages require you to stoop deeply, and in a couple of places you’ll be shuffling sideways. The route is one-way in the tightest sections, so crowds tend to organise themselves, but a big tour group can still cause a bottleneck. If that happens, relax and let the line move. Pushing doesn’t help in a tunnel built for 1.5 metres of headroom.

Kaymaklı: Tighter, Busier and Full of Detail

Kaymaklı lies about 10 kilometres from Derinkuyu, on the same road between Nevşehir and Niğde. It’s shallower, with around eight levels and just four open to visitors, descending to about 20 metres. It was also built by cutting through a different hillside, so it feels wider in places and more labyrinthine in others.

The visitor route here is more compact, and honestly, more intense. Passages are narrower than at Derinkuyu, and some of the connecting tunnels force you to bend nearly in half. In exchange, the rooms are packed with details that make the daily rhythm of life easier to imagine. You’ll see a large kitchen with soot-stained walls, a wine and oil pressing area, storage chambers with jars, and the remains of tombs. A small chapel and a so-called missionary school are also part of the circuit.

Kaymaklı also has one of the most photographed rolling stone doors in the region. You can see how a disc-shaped stone, weighing hundreds of kilograms, would be rolled across a passage from inside and then wedged into place. The stone had a small hole in the middle, which allowed defenders to poke a spear or observe movement outside.

You may hear that a long tunnel connects Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu. It’s a popular claim among guides, but no one has verified a continuous link between the two. Treat it as folklore for now, and enjoy that the landscape between them might hide more than anyone has found.

If you only have time for one of the two, here’s a simple rule: choose Derinkuyu for depth and the sense of scale, and Kaymaklı if you want a slightly shorter, more intimate walk. Doing both in the same morning is easy and worthwhile, since the two feel different enough to avoid repetition.

How the Underground Cities Actually Worked

Walking through the tunnels, it’s tempting to look only at the rooms. The real genius is in the systems that tied those rooms together.

Doors that closed from the inside

The rolling stone doors are the best-known defensive feature, and they were placed at strategic points on the lower levels, not just at the entrance. Because the disc could only be moved from the inside, defenders could seal off sections one at a time. If attackers broke through one level, the people below could retreat and close the next door behind them. The stones were set in a groove and could be rolled aside by a few adults but not easily pushed from the outside.

Air and water

Ventilation was the other great challenge. Thousands of small shafts are reported across the region, some leading to the surface and others linking levels. The main shafts in Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı helped circulate air and also served as access to wells. Many of these wells were hidden in the open air of village courtyards, which let people draw water above ground in peacetime but reach it from inside when under siege.

Narrow passages as a weapon

The tunnels were deliberately low and winding. An intruder had to crouch, which made it hard to swing a weapon or move fast. That slowness gave defenders an advantage. When you find yourself ducking through a passage and wishing it were wider, you’re experiencing exactly what the builders intended.

Communication

Some of these cities had speaking tubes or small channels that allowed messages to travel between levels. This feature is especially visible at Özkonak, which we’ll get to next.

Beyond the Big Two: Smaller Underground Cities Worth Seeing

Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı draw the crowds, and there’s a reason for it. But if you have an extra half day, several lesser-known sites offer a quieter experience and a different perspective on the region’s subterranean world.

Özkonak Underground City

Near Avanos, about 15 kilometres from town, Özkonak is smaller but has some of the best-preserved engineering details. Its standout feature is a system of narrow clay pipes that ran between levels, likely used for communication and ventilation. A rolling stone door is also in good condition. Only a few levels are open, and the walk takes about 30 to 40 minutes. It tends to be much less crowded than the southern cities, and the setting on a plateau gives it a more remote feel.

Mazı Underground City

Mazı, in a village in the Ürgüp area, feels more like a local discovery than a tourist site. It’s compact, with narrow tunnels and several rolling stones along the route. Because it’s small, you can see it quickly and combine it with other stops nearby. The route is tight, so those who dislike enclosed spaces may find it more intense than Derinkuyu.

Tatlarin Underground City

Near Ürgüp, the village of Tatlarin is home to an underground complex that includes a chapel with traces of frescoes, a rare find among the underground sites. It’s rarely visited, and the guides tend to be locals who know the area well. If you like the combination of history and a quieter atmosphere, it’s a strong choice.

Güzelyurt

Further afield in Aksaray Province, the town of Güzelyurt (historically Gelveri) has its own underground city and a landscape of rock-cut churches. It’s easy to include on a day trip toward Ihlara Valley, and the old Greek houses of the town give it a distinct feel from the more visited places in central Cappadocia.

Opening hours at the smaller sites can vary by season, and some are staffed by a caretaker who may be absent at off-peak times. Confirm locally when you’re in the area, and be ready to adjust if a door is closed.

Choosing a Base: Where to Stay in Cappadocia

The underground cities are in the southern part of the region, but most travellers stay in the villages and towns around the central valleys. You’ll drive 30 to 45 minutes to reach Derinkuyu or Kaymaklı from any of these.

Göreme

The classic base. Göreme is full of cave hotels, small restaurants and tour operators, and it’s the center of the balloon scene. It’s lively without being overwhelming, and you can walk to the Göreme Open Air Museum, with its frescoed rock churches. Budget travellers and first-timers tend to prefer it because everything is close and the choices are broad.

Uçhisar

A short drive away, Uçhisar is dominated by its rock citadel and has a quieter, more upscale feel. Views are better from here, and the village has some of the region’s more polished boutique stays. It works well if you want to retreat after a day of exploring.

Ürgüp

A real town with a working main square, wine shops and a mix of old stone mansions turned hotels. Ürgüp suits people who prefer something less touristy than Göreme, and it’s closer to Mazı and Tatlarin. The evening scene is relaxed, with wine bars and terraces.

Avanos

Set on the Kızılırmak River, Avanos is known for pottery, using the red clay from the riverbank. It’s a good base if you plan to visit Özkonak, and workshops here offer short hands-on sessions at the wheel. It feels more local and less staged than the central villages.

Mustafapaşa

Formerly the Greek village of Sinasos, Mustafapaşa is a quiet spot with elegant stone houses and a calm pace. It’s a good choice for a slower trip, and it’s not far from Soğanlı Valley.

If you want to be nearest the underground cities, Nevşehir and Derinkuyu itself have simple lodging, though the atmosphere is far less charming than the villages. For most people, a base in Göreme or Ürgüp strikes the best balance.

Getting There and Getting Around

Central Cappadocia is spread out, and public transport is limited, so your approach depends on how independent you want to be.

Arriving in the region

Two airports serve the area. Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport is about 30 kilometres from Göreme, and Kayseri Erkilet Airport is about 75 kilometres away. Both are served by flights from Istanbul and other Turkish cities, and shuttle services connect them to the main villages. Overnight buses from Istanbul and Ankara are also common, arriving in Nevşehir or Göreme.

Renting a car

This is the most flexible way to see the underground cities, especially if you want to include smaller sites. Roads are good, signage is clear, and parking at the main sites is easy. From Göreme, Kaymaklı is roughly 35 minutes by car, and Derinkuyu is about 10 minutes beyond that. You can start early, avoid the tour buses, and add stops at your own pace.

Public transport

Local minibuses (dolmuş) run between Nevşehir and the southern towns, passing through Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu. It’s an inexpensive option, usually a few dollars per leg, but it requires a connection in Nevşehir if you’re starting from Göreme or Ürgüp, and schedules thin out in the afternoon. It’s doable if you’re patient, but it won’t suit a tight itinerary.

Tours and taxis

Many travellers join the Green Tour, a full-day excursion that typically combines Derinkuyu or Kaymaklı with Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery. Group tours usually cost somewhere between $40 and $70 per person, depending on inclusions, though prices shift with season. A private driver for the same route is more expensive but gives you control over timing. Taxis can also be arranged for a half day to the underground cities, which makes sense if you’re not renting a car.

Walking and local travel

Within villages like Göreme, you can get around on foot, by bicycle or by e-bike. Many travellers also rent ATVs, though they’re better for the valleys than for reaching the underground cities.

What to Eat Before and After You Go Underground

The region’s cooking is hearty and rooted in its farming traditions, which makes it a natural reward after a morning spent crouching in tunnels.

Testi kebabı

The signature dish. Meat and vegetables are slow-cooked in a sealed clay pot, then brought to your table where the server cracks it open, sometimes with a small flourish. It’s rich, tender and meant for sharing. You’ll find it in Göreme, Ürgüp and Avanos, and many restaurants ask you to order ahead if you’re visiting for dinner.

Mantı

Tiny dumplings topped with garlicky yogurt and a drizzle of spiced butter. The version from nearby Kayseri is famously small, and it’s a satisfying lunch if you’re heading back from Kaymaklı.

Gözleme and village breakfasts

Thin hand-rolled flatbread filled with cheese, spinach or potato, cooked on a griddle. Roadside stalls and village restaurants often serve it alongside tea, and it’s the best quick meal on a day of sightseeing. Potatoes are a major crop in this part of Turkey, so you’ll see them featured in many dishes around Derinkuyu and Niğde.

Wine

Cappadocia has a winemaking tradition that goes back centuries, and local grapes like Emir (white) and Kalecik Karası or Öküzgözü (red) show up on menus in Ürgüp and Uçhisar. A tasting at a local winery, many of which are in cave cellars, is a pleasant way to wrap up a day. After the underground cities, a cool cellar with a glass of wine feels oddly fitting.

Sweets and snacks

Look for pekmez (grape molasses), dried fruits, walnuts and locally made sweets. In the market streets near Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu you’ll also find women selling handmade dolls, scarves and small stone crafts. Prices are modest, and a bit of friendly bargaining is normal.

Day Trips That Pair Well With the Underground Cities

The southern route is rich with other sights, and many of them fit naturally into the same day.

Ihlara Valley

About 40 kilometres past Derinkuyu, in Aksaray Province, Ihlara Valley is a green canyon carved by the Melendiz River. A set of around 360 steps leads down to the floor, and a flat trail runs for several kilometres beside the water, passing rock-cut churches with Byzantine frescoes. You can walk a short section or a long stretch, ending at Belisırma, where riverside restaurants serve fresh trout and simple meals.

Selime Monastery

At the end of the valley, Selime is a huge rock-cut complex with a cathedral-like main hall, kitchens and stables. The scale is impressive, and climbing through its chambers makes a nice contrast with the claustrophobic tunnels you’ve just visited. It’s also been used as a filming location.

Soğanlı Valley

Quieter and more rural, Soğanlı has two small valleys full of rock-cut churches and dovecotes. It’s one of the least crowded places in the region, and it suits travellers who like wandering without a crowd. Add it if you’re based in Mustafapaşa or Ürgüp.

Hasan Dağı and the Aksaray plateau

If you’re feeling ambitious, the road toward Aksaray passes the dramatic volcanic cone of Hasan Dağı. The mountain is a landmark for the whole region and gives context for the geology that made all of this possible.

Above-ground highlights nearby

Back in the central valleys, the Göreme Open Air Museum, Zelve, Paşabağ (the “monks’ valley”) and Avanos pottery workshops fill out a more traditional sightseeing itinerary. Hot air balloon flights at dawn, usually booked in advance, give you an aerial view of the same terrain you’ve been exploring from below.

Practical Tips: Timing, Claustrophobia, Tickets and Etiquette

When to go

Underground temperatures hover around 13 to 15°C year-round, which makes the cities a welcome escape in summer and a mild retreat in winter. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons overall for the region, with clear skies and pleasant walking weather. Summer is hot above ground, and winter can bring snow, which adds a magical look to the landscape but may affect road conditions.

Beating the crowds

Tour buses typically arrive from late morning to early afternoon. Arriving right at opening, usually around 8:00, or in the last hour or two before closing, makes a noticeable difference.

Tickets

Entry fees are paid in Turkish lira and have increased in recent years, so confirm the current price before you go. Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı are included in the Museum Pass Turkey, which can save money if you plan to visit several state-run sites on your trip. Check what the pass covers when you buy it, since inclusions can change.

If you’re claustrophobic

Be honest with yourself. Some passages are narrow and low, and the one-way flow can make it hard to turn back. If you’re nervous, go early in the day when it’s quieter, stick to the upper levels and know that you can exit at several points. Kaymaklı is tighter than Derinkuyu, and Özkonak and Mazı are more enclosed still. Eased in gradually, many nervous visitors end up managing better than expected.

What to wear and bring

• Shoes with good grip, since stone steps can be smooth and slightly damp.
• A light layer, even in summer, because the temperature drops once you’re inside.
• A small flashlight or phone light, useful for peering into side rooms, though the main route is lit.
• Minimal bags. A large backpack becomes a nuisance in narrow passages.

Mind your head

Ceilings can be as low as a metre or so in places. Keep your chin down, move slowly and watch for arrows and signs pointing the way. Hard hats aren’t provided, so a bump on the forehead is the most common souvenir.

Accessibility

The cities are not suitable for people with significant mobility issues. Steps are steep and uneven, passages are tight, and there are no lifts. Travellers with knee or back problems should think carefully before committing.

Respect the site

Stay on the marked path, don’t touch the walls more than necessary, and avoid carving or leaving marks. These are fragile, centuries-old structures. Guides are often available at the entrance for a modest fee, and a good one adds a lot of context, particularly at the smaller sites where signage is limited.

A Sample Three-Day Plan

Here’s one way to fit the underground cities into a broader trip through Cappadocia without feeling rushed.

Day one: Göreme and the central valleys

Start with a sunrise balloon flight if the weather allows, then spend the morning at the Göreme Open Air Museum. In the afternoon, walk through Love Valley or Pigeon Valley, and end the day with testi kebabı in a cave restaurant.

Day two: The southern route

Drive south early to reach Kaymaklı at opening time, then continue to Derinkuyu. Have a late lunch of gözleme or mantı in the village, then continue to Ihlara Valley for a few hours of walking and a trout dinner at Belisırma. Return via Selime if time allows.

Day three: Quiet corners

Choose between Özkonak with an Avanos pottery workshop, or Mazı and Tatlarin near Ürgüp. Finish with a wine tasting in a cave cellar, and spend your final evening wandering Uçhisar or Ürgüp as the light goes soft over the valleys.

If you have only one day for the underground world, drive south, see both Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu in the morning, and finish at Ihlara. It’s a full day, but it gives you a strong sense of how people lived, hid and survived in this part of Turkey, and it leaves you with a different view of the landscape above.

Explore more
Cappadocia Hot Air Balloon Guide: How to Book, What to Expect & Getting the Most from Your Flight
Staying in a Cave Hotel in Cappadocia: What It’s Really Like & How to Choose the Right One

📷 Featured image by Carlo Romero on Unsplash.